MAISON MARGIELA Now boarding
That very particular airport-transit-limbo-land feeling is what sparked the scene for the Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 18 collection. A masculine suit jacket has been taken apart and put back together, interspersed with gauze, slightly over-sized, asymmetrically buttoned, alternating sober gray with sensuous black transparency. And who needs a coat room when you’ve got a black dinner jacket sewn onto the back of your little black dress?
The trench coat, a staple of this season’s collection, comes in handy for April showers, Summer monsoons. Converted into a dress with sleeves lopped off and a transparent mid-riff of, yes, more gauze, and cut right down to form one of a series of bodices handsomely worn over shirts. Because Maison Margiela has always been into de-and-re-constructing, cross-referencing, and blurring boundaries.
A clash of patterned skirts and tops is encouraged. Think tartan, think floral. Labels marked PRIORITY and APPROVED and First Class serve as witty accessories. Accessories are legion. Bags are designed like first-class padded seats, which be used as cushions.
Margiela’s refreshing, emancipating eccentricity was traditionally toned down with trademark minimalism. The label has recently been infused with John Galliano’s rejuvenating sense of transgression. Since his appointment in 2014, five years after founding father Martin Margiela’s departure, he has made a point of winning over long-term fans with virtuoso visual puns, writing an inspired new chapter of a paradigm-shifting success story.