Maison Margiela Fashion is an art
1988, the French Couture House Maison Margiela was founded in Paris by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens. The House’s creations revolve around the purification, reconstruction and transformation of preset rules.
Born in 1959, Martin Margiela graduated Antwerp’s prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Even though he wasn’t part of the Antwerp Six – Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, … – Margiela has often been likened to them. Arriving in France, he notably assisted Jean Paul Gaultier for three years.
Originally named Maison Martin Margiela, the first collection showed during the Spring-Summer 1989 Parisian Fashion Week. Set appart with a stripped down approach to fashion, contrasting with the era’s eccentricity. Margiela rode aside minimalistic and edgy designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons. The mystery surrounding the House and his designer - who never saluted at the end of his shows - highly contributed to its fame.
The collections were so strong that they never needed a public face to represent them. The enigmatic and conceptual esthetic, the omnipresence of white, the gender confusing pieces, the unexpected volumes, stood on their own. Shaping a new contemporary fashion.
In 2009, Martin Margiela yielded the artistic direction of the House. Maison Margiela received in 2012 the Haute Couture designation. Two years later John Galliano was appointed Artistic Director, and has been officiating since then.
Galliano has been toying with Margiela’s likes for taking an existing piece and hybridizing or enhancing it. Fall/Winter 2016 was no exception.
Belts went mega, apron became evening dresses on patched up silhouettes of knit, silk and leather. Take a shaker put a vintage pilot, an oxford scholar, and a skiing socialite inside, shake like there is no tomorrow, and dress on the catwalk. There you have it, the womenswear Fall/Winter.
The menswear collection features longue sleeves, torn suits, loosen knits, sportswear leggings and tops, and classical pieces with a twist. Unconventional yet chic.