Chasing the wild and romantic night, see the lovers running the streets freely. She’s a shooting star, he races to keep up. Ann Demeulemeester’s Fall/Winter 2016 menswear and womenswear collections feel like a whispered declaration. “Follow me and I’ll run, run and I’ll follow.”
Passionate love, obsessive folly, the Demeulemeester winter’s been all about feeling, standing tall between two styles where feminine and masculine collide.
Women dressed in the Belgian House’s usual rock’n’roll and poetry, its signature blend since its inception, in 1985. They have always been their counterpart’s forerunning shadow. Draped in refined and bohemian black, bringing lengthy coats and flared pants together, tokens of masculinity on the female body. Sharp details – like those delicate yet forceful links tightened around the waist – and hazy fabrics lighten the mood.
Men overlaid materials – cotton, denim, feathers – and lighter colors from red to turquoise, from copper to cream: the dreamy contemplative companion even holds on to a few of his lover’s locks, wearing them proudly around his neck. He’s also borrowed her belts, furs, silks and alpacas, pairing them with floral prints, with suit pants, with everything he finds. He’s had to hurry, she was about to get away.
Asymmetrical cuts, hugging the chest, and high waists lengthening the silhouettes, draw the attention to their faces, where emotions lie. With sophistication, the flow of a liberating love gushes openly.