Since the beginning of the 90s, Jun Takahashi has been creating collections that offer a strong narrative vision, nurtured with an innate sense of drama and fueled by an auspicious wind of rebellion. This season, Undercover sways between utopia, in its Womenswear collection, and dystopia, in its Menswear collection.
With the first, entitled « But Beautiful III Utopie », Takahashi propels us into a world where sweet creatures abound. This bewitching world, inspired by nature, comes off as something of a beautiful and magical fairyland, where differences are gifts that make us stronger. Aristocrats, young rebels, queens, military women, whatever your status, tender color tones merge with the esthetics of Punk, one of Jun Takahashi’s main influences. Wasn’t he the frontman of a cover band called The Tokyo Sex Pistols? Enough said.
Long-sleeved sweaters, looking like the moths got them, are so oversize at times they fantastically turn into gowns, straight from Alice in Wonderland. Bomber jackets come with a ruff, a worker-bee printed on their back. And the gowns, well… The gowns turn into real, honest goodness beehives. Even the military-inspired coat lapels bend like leaves under heavy drops of morning dew.
As for the Menswear collection, it reveals Takahashi’s take on a singular and apathetic « Brain Washed Generation », wrapped under a shelter of sorts, made up with multiple layers of clothes whose colors refer to the dark sides of our big cities. Oversized puffer jackets and cardigans match with one another, for a total and absolute street style look, head to toe, infused with the personal know-how Undercover has worked at since the early days.
« MEDIA IS GOD » is the message, printed across the sweaters, cut short at the waist – like the Women’s collection, and with sleeves that walk the extra-mile. They exude that loose, laid-back and yet somehow victorious attitude. Yes, Jun Takahashi makes fun of everything, with everything, because why not? Oh and there’s a hat, with devil’s horns no less, to remind us how dangerous a mechanic, and emotionless intelligence might be. Cherish what defines your very humanity could be this radical, mind-bending designer’s last word…