A year after Shigoto, Leclaireur X comes as a new beginning, a next chapter filled with thrilling hopes for new tomorrows.
This collection was born from the convergence of multiple inspirations: convergence between materials, techniques and craftsmanships, and between designers and suppliers who share the same values. It’s all about Truth and Craft.
Leclaireur X has been heeding the call of a contemporary version of the punk movement, filled with individuals who will not stand to be labeled, segmented, and who find today’s current divisions… inadequate.
Each and every one of us comes as the result of merging influences. Together, our imaginations unleash a new modern and unbound mythology. In this light, we embrace our hybrid nature, just like the Leclaireur X pieces, acting here as a call for resistance. Let’s resist, united, to fast fashion and to production injunctions that restrain our access to a liberated and respectful Creation.
Today, like enlightened punks, we choose to refuse limits, and to stand for what we believe to be right: no more genders, no more frontiers, no more scissions.
With so many talents, we proudly bring together crafts and know-hows in the collective adventure that is Leclaireur X Première Vision.
Creativity, wit, novelty, playfulness, innovation, connection.
We build bridges, not walls. #resist
Limited quantities of each items are available as of today, exclusively at Leclaireur.
ARCHIVIO J.M. RIBOT
Archivio JM RIBOT adds its own brand of refined twist with a silhouette that whispers Dolce Vita and special occasions, offering a new take on the tuxedo, with three distinct pieces.
His merino-blend, silk, satin silk and cotton suit come complete with a silk shirt.
With characterized boldness, the jacket has been crafted from pants parts and vice versa, displacing the positions of some details.
Karim Farès, JM RIBOT’s artistic director, has established a long and strong connection with Ricardo Bruni, the artistic director of Lyria, the weaving company. The two of them, working hand in hand on this project, chose to blend French and Italian vintage fabrics from early 20th century with Lyria’s contemporary textile expertise.
The American fashion designer’s parka suit walks the rightful path of his previous creations. The stunning patchwork piece, typical of his craft, mixes his salvaged, riveted, reborn textiles with refined satin elements. In the back, a detachable tail brings modernity and tradition together.
The outerwear silhouette is stunning, complete with lowered cargo pants and late 19th century suspenders. The pants, too, come assembled with various elements of satin, cotton, jersey and silk.
In Greg Lauren’s skillful hands, the Wild West puts the refined in the utilitarian.
Kiminori Morishita dares to mix two apparently opposite worlds — Japanese Samurais meet Far West Cowboys. The suit jacket has taken the shape of a kimono, with a buffalo-leather fringed collar and authentic bone beads, resulting in a piece infused with both the Japanese warrior’s and the Cheyenne Indian’s quintessential qualities. Assembled very much like a French tuxedo – with inside pockets, a half-moon lining and silk satin lapels – the jacket is enhanced with solid silver pieces reminiscent of the Indian ties.
Martial-art-inspired loose pants allow for easy and comfortable movements, while the lateral straps enhance the utilitarian feeling of the piece, which also hides pockets in its pleats.
The silhouette comes complete with a sewn-pleated shirt crafted in a AGIRLS fresca cotton jersey, keeping the body cool under the heavy and active jacket.
Miaoran joins the project with three versatile and inventive pieces made from Lyria’s refined textiles. The silhouette associates a wool and silk jacquard coat jacket with a lightly striped, merino-alpaca blend vest and pants suit – worn here with a Leclaireur shirt.
The retro inspired crossed suspender pants have the ability – thanks to an ingenious zipped waist line – to turn into a jumpsuit.
Miao Ran has infused his silhouette with every bit of his brand’s philosophy, linking style and utility, with a 19th-century reminiscence that seeps into his modern and inventive world.
Shiro Sakai is not one for taking chances. The suit he’s created, following his first womenswear collection and shifting towards menswear, is a testament to his talent.
Every bit of its anatomy is highlighted by white overstitching. The wool and tweed contrast gives it utter flexibility.
In the back, princess seams offer the perfect amount of refinement, bringing balance to the piece. The former pattern-maker maintains his sense of style with thoughtful details. His white cat-eyes buttons, originally used in military parkas, are but one of many such examples.
Every cut is meticulously anticipated, like game-changing features. On his black or white shirts, he’s crafted orchestral breastplates, with various fabrics in a large range of blue tones.
SONG FOR THE MUTE
Song for the Mute’s dynamic duo have done it again, with their deliberately twisted take on the tuxedo. The mutated tux, crafted in denim with a refined punk esthetic, is made with AGIRLS and Faliero Sarti’s finest textiles, and modernized in each of its classical details, from the velvet stand-out collar to the lateral satin strips. The pants have been shortened and endowed with silk suspenders, complemented by a quiet indigo floral Mao shirt. In Tanaya and Ty’s hands, the jacket has taken the shape of the iconic denim jacket, with raw edges and Japanese horn buttons, enhancing the silhouette’s dynamic feel.
TAKAHIRO MIYASHITA THE SOLOIST
Takahiro Miyashita has poured his rebelious mind into this perfect evening jacket that has as much to do with the Beatles (circa Sgt Pepper) as it has with French military hussars. The cashmere wool suit jacket sports a velvet and leather collar, complete with a silk and cotton blend lining with contrasting details. The pearly white lining and frayed edges shout out how precise the Japanese designer’s work can be. Such precision has been his trademark since the beginning of Number (N)ine. The piece is so sharp, you’ll want to wear it inside-out, and heed the call of adventure, for an evening, a night, a lifetime.
Uma Wang‘s bohemian three-piece suit perfectly blends her Eastern and Western influences. Lying somewhere between Shanghai and the Roaring Twenties, her reinvented mao changshan shirt in overdyed Tuscanian cotton comes with wide pants and a double-breasted jacket, for a jazzy, refined yet mellow ensemble.
The whole silhouette takes us on a journey made of wool and silk Lyria jacquards, over an ocean of blues ranging from China blue to midnight blue, with the Silk Road for destination, embedded in the lining’s comforting warmth. Across the world, two cultures connect.
With the support of KTC – the razor-sharp manufacture in charge of his collections – Yang Li has given birth to a twill, wool and technical polyester tuxedo. The loose silhouette, close to the House’s esthetic, is enhanced with a peculiar sense of technicality. The Chinese designer has taken on the male wardrobe’s most classical ensemble and constructed it using only thermo-welding. If looks do matter, function remains the essence. Yang Li has added straps to his jacket, to take with you anywhere, anytime.
Yesterday and tomorrow come together in this fray-edged creation where tailoring meets Schoeller’s technology.