Fabric, Folds, and Fringe — Forever
Putting on — even looking at — an Issey Miyake garment is like venturing into a mysterious, algorithmic blossom. The textiles themselves evoke Mother Nature’s finest masterpieces. The silhouettes bring out the best in their materials, cocooning the body like a cascade of architectural phenomena yet to be realised by humans in any other way. They must be complicated… But no. They’re as effortless and as universal as a smile.
A relentless searcher and innovator since he debuted his studio in 1970, Miyake has consistently blended traditional fabrication methods with the most advanced tech in clothing development. His mission: explore the relationship between forms, the body, and the abstract spaces between, while pushing the boundaries of what can be created, and with what material. From Pleats Please to A-POC to the Bao Bao bag collection, the Japanese designer Issey Miyake and his team of designers show us over and over that creation and its manifestations are infinite, uncontainable, and that motion — as demonstrated through fabric, form and function — is intrinsic to the human condition.
This season, on the heels of having been decorated with the French Légion d’honneur, Miyake takes us on yet another voyage into The Deep, incorporating fringe that evokes some furry creature 25,000 leagues under the sea, and a palette of royal neutrals — bronze, deep green and black — with cheery cobalts and yellows. The pieces are, as always, endlessly chic, versatile, easy to move in and easy to pack up and travel with. Any fan of Pleats Please (women) and Hommes Plissés (men) knows that caring for, or simply keeping, pleats in glorious shape went to the next dimension thanks to Miyake in the early 1990s. The silhouettes of the Spring Summer 2016 collection may make you want nothing more than to dive way down into that Miyake sea, and emerge merely to float through the city streets, draped in the accordion-like waves of his uber-sensual yet totally comfortable and durable pieces.