Men’s Fashion Week AW16 has come and gone, sweeping through Paris, and through LECLAIREUR’s curating and creative teams, like an exhilarating storm of wows. While last season’s 70s influence can still be felt, it’s now mixed with something borrowed, straight from the 30s and something new, a bold and complementary Asian vibe. All around the globe, shapes are evolving, and a new-found audacity has landed. Here’s a sneak peek at what, at who, made our hearts skip a beat, and what you can look forward to this fall.
Emerging from darkness, colors, plaid, florals and strings of hair pop out to give a new sense to modernity. Ann Demeulemeester still gives menswear an androgynous look, with textured fabric, cinched waists, loose knits and contrasted lengths. Never far from her signature black, next season she’s twisting it with deep teals, bright rusts, earthy browns and smooth reds.
Glam-Punk is the word! Haider Ackermann presents tailored, skinny, Bowie-esque silhouettes, all slicked up from the neo-mohawk to the shimmery fabric. The show proved that rock n roll lives forever, revisiting classical pieces with the exoticism the designer infuses in every creation.
With Elbaz no longer around, Lucas Ossendrijver delivers once again on menswear with an elegant and poised collection. The show gradually takes us on a journey through shades of blue, with almost monochromic looks, broken up with burgundy, camel, beige and deep cognac.
Yohji Yamamoto’s AW16 collection brings us his timeless and perennial black, now layered differently with shirts over puffy coats in shades of green and blue, at once lightening the mood and cozying us up. The garment volumes are as fluid as ever, only now he’s reigning them in with straps, reshaping the body once again. The designer affirms his life’s work with playful hand-drawings on multiple pieces, including self-portraits on sweaters. Rest assured, the creative and joyful godfather of anti-fashion is watching over you all day long.
Welcome, once again, to the oniric world of Thom Browne. Travel through eras and states of mind, follow the path that leads to a decaying menswear. Decaying? Ok, but ever so gorgeous — time is of our essence and Browne dives into that notion to give it life, and a seat in the front row of his show. Meet the faceless men who wear the clothes that are walking up to you, in a poetic rendering of time because it is… you know, on our side. Yes it is.
Video: Gaubert-Verrier-Bauer / STUDIO JUNGLE 2016