A breath of fresh air is taking fashion by storm. After Gucci’s resurgence, perfectly achieved by Alessandro Michele, it’s Balenciaga’s turn to change gears under Demna Gvasalia’s leadership.
In just a few seasons, the young Georgian designer’s vision – which he’s already expressed as part of the VETEMENTS Collective he represents – has succeeded in polarizing the world’s minds and eyes, influencing more and more designers, from one collection to the next.
For Fall/Winter 2016, cuts were the stars of the show. Assertive silhouettes were set to emphasize Balenciaga’s inherent austerity. Brown sweaters on checked skirts widened, trapeze-style, suits dared a noticeable waist and over-amplified hips to empower business-minded fashionistas in their own unique way, and florals spread from shoulder to knee.
Embracing a working-class take on luxury, down jackets yearn to warm up sequin dresses, silk garments rub shoulders with polyester and vinyl, and the oh so downtown oversized stripped shopping bag, makes its way uptown, albeit in lamb leather. Down jackets, yes, again, and trench coats too, regain a sense of freshness and refinement with flared out necklines, resting on the shoulders, unabashedly uncovering the neck and the collarbone. Never one to overdo it, Balenciaga has clearly redefined its view on women in 2016: strong, ready to take the world by storm, and intent on find appreciation in her own eyes first.
Gvasalia enjoys distilling in Balenciaga, the deep-rooted impudence he founded VETEMENTS on. Mixing genres and materials, questioning taste level, with the will and ideal that fashion shouldn’t be nothing but inclusive… and profoundly modern.