LITKOVSKAYA NEW COLLECTION SS 2016
New LITKOVSKAYA collection is a confrontation of past and future, industrial and ornamental, feminine and masculine. Lilia Litkovskaya explores street fashion codes and mass culture symbolism, traditions of military and ritual dressing.
In the new collection experimentations with pattern and cut take center stage. Menswear-inspired jackets in vichy check are resized and remolded on female body – military-inspired belts with pocket bags accentuate waist and crease the fabric, distorting the garment’s initial appearance. Asymmetric dresses in boucle jersey and wild silk fall off the shoulders, their sinusoid structure forcing garments to swirl around the body.
LITKOVSKAYA enters territory of controlled chaos – distortions and enhancements of shapes and silhouettes are thoroughly calculated and precisely executed. Resulting shapes and volumes are spontaneous but never accidental.
Borrowing from the menswear wardrobe, Lilia Litkovskaya explores archetypical symbols of machismo and, questioning them, tries to apply to female body. Thus, classic mens trench coat is reintroduced in sexy tobacco leather. Replicas of classic cowboy shirts are remade in rubber-coated lace with sequined detailing. Casual jeans are reimagined in graphic patchwork of worn-out stretch leather that looks like denim cotton.
At LITKOVSKAYA ideas of modern femininity are translated through materials that are uncharacteristic and challenging for designer. Off-white rubber-coated lace reminds of ceremonial dressing and clinical robes. It is introduced in semi sheer coats and layered dresses. Patchwork of sparkling reversible sequins adorns loose jumpsuits and slit skirts that draw inspiration from Las Vegas glitz.
But there is dual nature to these garments, i.e. an ultra short heavily sequined party dress doubles as a military jacket, its dark khaki lining quoted from the archived army surplus.
Multilayered clash of colors, materials and ideas offers a new way to balance signature industrial aesthetic and excessive decorum. At LITKOVSKAYA this newly found interest in extravagance and visual manifestation of excess opens up a dialogue on symbolism, authenticity and value. Questioning traditional perceptions of feminine and masculine, Lilia Litkovskaya searches for renewal and reevaluation of familiar objects and images.